Posts
Proper paint selection is first and foremost. In most cases, an oil-based or alkyd paint is the best choice.But there are still a few guidelines helpful to observe, in order to get the best result.Proper paint selection is the first requirement. Interior paints, whether latex or oil-based, come in a variety of finishes: glossy, semi-glossy, satin, eggshell and flat. Which to choose depends, of course, on the final look desired. The names are descriptive of the final finish.
Deciding on whether a primer is needed can be difficult. If the surface would absorb too readily, making it necessary to use several top coats, go with primer.It also shows dirt and smudges clearly. Semi-gloss is nearly the same, but with a lower sheen. They work well for high humidity rooms and trim.Satins give a mild sheen that cleans up easily. They can be used anywhere inside. Eggshell paints go on smooth and leave a low-sheen on the surface. That can be the perfect look for a hallway, den or other quiet area.Flat paint is just what it sounds like. It goes on thin and leaves a matte look, with little light reflection. Far from being dull, though, that may be just the right look for certain areas.
Oil-based paints are especially prone to this. They are thicker to begin with and are often not thinned properly before beginning. They also dry more slowly.Also, flat paints, because they don't reflect as much light, help mask wall defects, such as small scratches. That makes a touch up of a wall in the kid's room the perfect application for a flat paint. Ceilings are an ideal application, where low light reflection is often desired.
Rapid peeling results from a combination of factors. Painting over wood that contains too much moisture is the most common.
Since preparation involves washing the surface first, it's important to ensure that the wood is well dried before starting.
Once the paint is selected, it's time to go. Start at the top with the ceiling, if that's part of the job and work your way down. A roller can do those large areas quickly, but be sure to pick a nap length that will produce the desired result. The longer the nap, the rougher the final look. Take care not to move too fast and fling paint off the roller as it moves.When you get to the areas near the trim and baseboard a brush becomes mandatory. Even a well-masked border will absorb some paint from a roller as it bleeds through. A technique called 'cutting in' is used with a brush in those areas.
Sagging looks similar, but here the error is incorrect brushing technique. Too much paint on the brush at one time can produce too thick a coat.Dip the brush into the can or pan about two inches and scrape off any excess paint onto the rim. Move the brush close to the border and give it a short jab, taking care not to touch the masking tape. You generally will just touch it, but by making an effort to avoid it, you'll tend to produce little paint at the very edge.
Deciding on whether a primer is needed can be difficult. If the surface would absorb too readily, making it necessary to use several top coats, go with primer.It also shows dirt and smudges clearly. Semi-gloss is nearly the same, but with a lower sheen. They work well for high humidity rooms and trim.Satins give a mild sheen that cleans up easily. They can be used anywhere inside. Eggshell paints go on smooth and leave a low-sheen on the surface. That can be the perfect look for a hallway, den or other quiet area.Flat paint is just what it sounds like. It goes on thin and leaves a matte look, with little light reflection. Far from being dull, though, that may be just the right look for certain areas.
Oil-based paints are especially prone to this. They are thicker to begin with and are often not thinned properly before beginning. They also dry more slowly.Also, flat paints, because they don't reflect as much light, help mask wall defects, such as small scratches. That makes a touch up of a wall in the kid's room the perfect application for a flat paint. Ceilings are an ideal application, where low light reflection is often desired.
Rapid peeling results from a combination of factors. Painting over wood that contains too much moisture is the most common.
Since preparation involves washing the surface first, it's important to ensure that the wood is well dried before starting.
Once the paint is selected, it's time to go. Start at the top with the ceiling, if that's part of the job and work your way down. A roller can do those large areas quickly, but be sure to pick a nap length that will produce the desired result. The longer the nap, the rougher the final look. Take care not to move too fast and fling paint off the roller as it moves.When you get to the areas near the trim and baseboard a brush becomes mandatory. Even a well-masked border will absorb some paint from a roller as it bleeds through. A technique called 'cutting in' is used with a brush in those areas.
Sagging looks similar, but here the error is incorrect brushing technique. Too much paint on the brush at one time can produce too thick a coat.Dip the brush into the can or pan about two inches and scrape off any excess paint onto the rim. Move the brush close to the border and give it a short jab, taking care not to touch the masking tape. You generally will just touch it, but by making an effort to avoid it, you'll tend to produce little paint at the very edge.
About the Author:
If you want to know more about MySiteDomain.com and The Title of My Website you can ask the author for more information.
No comments:
Post a Comment